成衣设计项目教学

通过企业实例展现成衣设计过程，配合企业品牌定位，全面诠释成衣设计内涵；

来自企业的实践经验——从设计调研到设计概念，再到最后工艺制作、产品推广，实现完整的成衣设计与制作过程；以项目任务的形式，做系统性、实战性和可操作性的讲解。

成衣设计，作为成衣产业链中重要的一环，兼具设计的艺术性与市场性。市场化的企业运作方式决定成衣设计师必须熟知市场运作规律，能够结合市场需求和企业的生产特点进行设计，同时能够很好地与相关部门沟通协作。

本书共9章：第1章 成衣设计项目任务综述，阐述成衣设计项目任务的特点和过程、认知设计、成衣与成衣设计、成衣产业、成衣设计项目的基本概念；第2章 任务一：项目调研，了解设计项目调研的基本内容和方法，以有效的方式依照程序进行市场调研，遵照服装流行的规律，运用流行信息来源搜集有效资讯作为产品开发的依据；第3章 任务二：确定设计主题，针对品牌和产品的

风格、消费群体等多方面进行定位，为设计任务确定本季产品明确的主题；第4章 任务三：款式设计，设计新一季产品结构，进行分类设计、基本款设计和款式系列设计；第5章 任务四：色彩搭配，运用色彩规律及流行色彩进行服装整体性配色；第6章 任务五：面辅料的应用，根据款式要求选择相应的面辅料；第7章 任务六：纸样设计，准确制定服装的尺寸规格，进行成衣制板，计算用料率并进行排料，合理编制所加工服装的工艺顺序和标准；第8章 任务七：工艺设计，进一步进行服装面辅料裁剪、排料及样衣的缝制；第9章 任务八：设计发布，采用多种宣传方式向消费者和市场传达品牌的理念、展示该季的产品，将产品顺利推向市场。

本书注重成衣设计产品开发的操作过程，在侧重能力实践的同时适当佐之以相应理论知识，适应当代服装职业教育的需求。

本书由丰蔚任主编，马淑燕、林璐、陈静任副主编，另外参加部分编写工作的还有刘钱洲、迟玲玲、张伟利等。

编者

2010年3月

第 1 章 成衣设计项目任务综述 ················ 1
■ 1.1 认知设计 ··········································2
■ 1.2 成衣与成衣设计 ·································4
■ 1.3 成衣产业 ··········································6
1.3.1 产业概述 ··········································································6
1.3.2 成衣设计公司中的设计团队 ··········································7
■ 1.4 成衣设计项目 ····································8
1.4.1 成衣设计项目工作过程 ··················································8
1.4.2 成衣设计的周期 ······························································8
第 2 章 任务一：项目调研 ·····················13
■ 2.1 产品定位 ········································14
2.1.1 确立目标消费群体 ························································15
2.1.2 设计风格定位 ································································17
2.1.3 设定品种类型 ································································18
2.1.4 明确产品生产与销售方式 ············································20
■ 2.2 市场调研 ········································21
2.2.1 市场调研方式 ·································································21
2.2.2 市场调研内容 ·································································22
■ 2.3 流行趋势 ········································33
2.3.1 流行周期 ········································································34
2.3.2 获取流行趋势的途径和渠道 ········································35
2.3.3 完成为设计任务服务的流行趋势报告 ························39
2.3.4 流行趋势报告 ································································44
2.3.5 流行趋势报告案例 ························································44
第 3 章 任务二：确定设计主题 ···············49
■ 3.1 设计主题的概念 ·······························50
3.1.1 为什么确立设计主题 ····················································50
3.1.2 设计主题 ········································································50
■ 3.2 设计主题的确定 ·······························54
■ 3.3 设计主题的确定方法 ·························60
3.3.1 调研法 ············································································60
3.3.2 类比法 ············································································60
3.3.3 延伸法 ············································································60
3.3.4 归纳法 ···········································································60
■ 3.4 设计主题案例 ·································60
3.4.1 品牌定位 ········································································60
3.4.2 消费群体 ········································································61
3.4.3 确定设计主题 ································································61
第 4 章 任务三：款式设计 ·····················65
■ 4.1 款式分类设计 ··································66
4.1.1 分类设计的概念与意义 ················································66
4.1.2 服装大类分类 ································································66
4.1.3 服装细节分类 ································································66
■ 4.2 基本款设计 ·····································73
4.2.1 基本款的概念 ································································73
4.2.2 基本款的确定 ·······························································74
4.2.3 基本款的种类与风格 ····················································74
4.2.4 案例 ···············································································77
■ 4.3 款式系列设计 ··································77
4.3.1 款式系列设计的概念与意义 ········································77
4.3.2 款式系列设计的原则 ····················································78
4.3.3 款式系列设计的特点 ····················································79
4.3.4 款式系列设计的常用手法 ············································79
4.3.5 款式系列设计的表现形式： ········································80
2
■ 4.4 基本款设计案例 ·······························81
第 5 章 任务四：色彩搭配 ·····················83
■ 5.1 认识色彩 ········································84
■ 5.2 色彩搭配 ········································86
■ 5.3 流行色与常规色 ·······························97
5.3.1 流行色 ············································································97
5.3.2 常规色 ············································································97
5.3.3 流行色预测 ····································································97
■ 5.4 案例分析 ········································99
第 6 章 任务五：面辅料的应用 ············· 103
■ 6.1 服装面辅料 ··································· 104
6.1.1 面料分类 ······································································104
6.1.2 辅料分类 ······································································105
■ 6.2 面辅料的选择与运用 ······················· 107
6.2.1 面辅料的选择 ······························································108
6.2.2 常见面料风格 ······························································109
■ 6.3 面料的再创造 ································ 110
■ 6.4 案例 ············································ 112
第 7 章 任务六：纸样设计 ··················· 115
■ 7.1 认知纸样设计 ································ 116
7.1.1 人体测量与服装规格 ··················································117
7.1.2 认知成衣纸样制图 ······················································119
7.1.3 常用制图符号说明与规范 ··········································122
■ 7.2 成衣纸样设计流程 ·························· 122
7.2.1 上衣原型制板 ······························································122
7.2.2 大身结构 ······································································124
7.2.3 局部结构运用 ······························································126
■ 7.3 纸样设计应用篇 ····························· 142
7.3.1 连衣裙 ··········································································142
7.3.2 衬衫 ············································································144
7.3.3 夹克 ··············································································147
7.3.4 套装 ··············································································149
■ 7.4 成衣工业制板 ································ 149
7.4.1 产品设计开发流程 ······················································150
7.4.2 成衣工业制板 ······························································151
第 8 章 任务七：工艺设计 ··················· 157
■ 8.1 工艺设计 ······································ 158
8.1.1 概念及内容介绍 ··························································158
8.1.2 内容分析 ······································································158
8.1.3 案例分析 ······································································161
■ 8.2 工序设计 ······································ 161
8.2.1 概念及内容介绍 ··························································161
8.2.2 工序流程图分析 ··························································166
■ 8.3 服装制板、工艺设计及流程分析案例 ·· 167
第 9 章 任务八：设计发布 ··················· 179
■ 9.1 静态设计发布 ································ 180
9.1.1 橱窗展示 ······································································180
9.1.2 平面宣传 ······································································181
■ 9.2 动态设计发布 ······························· 183
9.2.1 订货会 ··········································································183
9.2.2 品评会 ·········································································183
9.2.3 博览会 ··········································································184
9.2.4 发布会 ··········································································184
附 录 ·········································· 187
■ 参考文献 ············································· 188
■ 作者简介 ············································· 188

1. CLO 3D服装虚拟仿真设计与应用基础 [主编　王静]
2. 高等学校毕业设计（论文）指导教程——艺术设计类专业 [主编 王树彬 薛春艳]
3. 环境艺术设计概论 [主编张建涛]
4. 艺术设计概论 [纪学艳]
5. 新成衣设计 [丰蔚]
6. 线描 [雷明娜]